The J/109 Class Association Forum

Class Rules Discussions :: Documenting Bowsprit & Lifeline Measurement :: Author Vento Solare

no_email@example.com (Vento Solare) — Thu, 06 Mar 2025 16:41:02 -0500

The measurement tools used to verify that the Bowsprit length and Lifeline deflection are compliant with class rules are shown here, along with instructions on how the tools are used.

Bowsprit Measurement Tool
Bowsprit measurement was added to the measurement checklist when it was determined that there was a wide variation in the extended sprit length across boats. The measurement is intended to verify that no boat exceeds the J/Boats design specification of 66 inches when the sprit is fully extended. The 66 inch measurement points are the forward edge of the stem head fitting, and the load bearing surface on the sprit. The load bearing surface is either the forward edge of the U-bolt where the tack line turning block is attached, or the forward edge of the sprit for configurations with a dyneema loop & ring anchored at the front of the sprit.

Sprit Tool overall

sprit-tool-overall.jpg

Forward end of tool hooks into U-bolt, of hole in end of sprit

sprit-tool-forward.jpg

Aft end of tool located by stem head

sprit-tool-aft.jpg

The tool provides repeatable measurement without the use of a tape measurer. The critical dimension is the overall length of 66 inches. The other dimensions are not critical, allowing the tool to be fabricated from scrap material. It consists of a PVC or Wood board that is 66 inches long. On one end, a cross piece is attached with screws. There are two screws used as guide pins that are "hooked" into either the U-bolt, or the hole at the end of the sprit, depending on configuration. These screws should be located 1 inch & 2-3/8 inches from the side of the 66 inch board. They are on opposite sides so the screw at 1 inch may be used for the U-Bolt, and the screw at 2-3"8 may be used for the hole in the end of the pole.

Using the Sprit Measurement Tool
One person will pull the pole out. A second person places the tool fore & aft with the pole retracted, hook the U-Bolt or end hole as appropriate. Hold the tool and let is slide through your hand as the pole is slowly extended. When the pole is fully extended, move the aft end by the stem head fitting. Anything that allows the end to swing without touching the stem head is too long.

Remedy for Sprit too long

The sprit extension may be shortened by either fixing a limit line between the aft end of the pole and the padeye on the aft bulkhead. The line is adjusted and shortened as needed to limit the sprit extension.
An alternate method uses shims on the aft end between the rubber limit stop and the collar on the forward bulkhead. Trim the shim to the desired length and tape it onto the pole.

Lifeline Deflection Measurement Tool
Lifeline deflection measurement is in accordance with World Sailing Offshore Special regulations specified parameters. The measurement verifies that the lines are properly tensioned with a maximum of 2 inches for the upper and 4-3/4 inches for the lower lifeline. Deflection is measured on longest section of the lifeline, forward of the stanchions used for entry gates. Should lifeline cushions be installed, measure the first section forward of the cushions. A 4 kilogram weight (8.8 pounds) is hung with a hook at the center of a span to be measured. The weight may be any suitable collection of dense material such as lead fishing weights, iron dumbbells, etc.

The deflection measurement tool is fabricated using a 48 inch wooden dowel, a 1 x 2 x 6 inch block and two cable clamps sized the same diameter as the dowel. The plastic clamps used for restraining electrical wires works well. The block should be labeled with a reference line at the top, a line 2 inches below that marked "Upper" and a third line 4-3/4 inches from the refence labeled "Lower". The clamps are screwed into the opposite side of the block and tightened so the the block is able to slide up and down the dowel with some resistance.

Lifeline tool slider front

lifeline-tool-slider-front.jpg

Lifeline tool slider back

lifeline-tool-slider-back.jpg

Simulated Upper Reference

simulated-upper-reference.jpg

Simulated Upper Measurement

simulated-upper-measurement.jpg

b]Simulated Lower Reference[/b]

simulated-lower-reference.jpg

Simulated Lower Measurement

simulated-lower-measurement.jpg

Using Lifeline Deflection Measurement Tool
Measurement is performed on boat upper and lower lifelines both port and starboard side. Locate the longest lifeline span, and if covered with a cushion, the span just forward of it. Make sure the gates are closed and hang the weight in the center of the span. Put the dowel on the deck against a stanchion and slide the block to line up the reference line at the point where the line being measured exits the stanchion hole. Hold the block in place and move the dowel placing it on the deck by the weight to verify deflection at the weight is no greater than the limit line as appropriate for the upper or lower lifeline. Should the deflection be too long, the weight should be removed, lifeline turnbuckles tightened, and measurement reverified. Repeat the process on upper and lower lifeline port & starboard side.

Attachments

sprit-tool-overall.jpg (217.2 KiB)

simulated-lower-measurement.jpg (131.94 KiB)

simulated-lower-reference.jpg (125.38 KiB)

lifeline-tool-slider-front.jpg (270.63 KiB)

lifeline-tool-slider-back.jpg (314.79 KiB)

sprit-tool-aft.jpg (366.01 KiB)

sprit-tool-forward.jpg (174.33 KiB)

simulated-upper-measurement.jpg (88.2 KiB)

simulated-upper-reference.jpg (162.52 KiB)

Class Rules Discussions :: Inspection Checklist for 2025 North American Championship :: Author Vento Solare

no_email@example.com (Vento Solare) — Sun, 16 Mar 2025 12:09:18 -0400

The inspection checklist has been updated for the 2025 North American Championship. The following changes were made from 2024.

1. The list has been reordered to make the process easier, starting topside working from the stern to the bow, then below deck factory installed items, followed by miscellaneous required equipment checks.

2. Clarified that all sails not declared must be removed from the boat.

3. Added topside handrail verification to preclude modification of factory installed equipment by shortening.

4. Clarified battery inspection to require lead based technology (no Lithium) with a minimum amp-hour rating installed in the original location.

5. Added area to note any measurement exceptions to be annotated and verified prior to inspection completion.

This is a link to the 2025 Checklist posted on the Class Website on the Other Documents page.

Class Rules Discussions :: 2025 NA Championship Spinnaker Rule Change Proposed :: Author Vento Solare

no_email@example.com (Vento Solare) — Sun, 20 Apr 2025 16:28:24 -0400

Preamble: The proposed rule changes were approved by the Executive Board and forwarded to J/109 Class Members for a vote.

Background: As previously announced, the 2025 North American Championship ("NAC") will be held in Chicago and hosted by Fleet #11 (Great Lakes & Lake Champlain). Fleet 11 has traditionally conducted its class racing using "oversized" spinnakers (spinnakers larger than the 108 square meters permitted under the Class Rules). In order to ensure broad participation in the 2025 and future class championship event, Fleet 11 has requested to use those same "oversized" spinnakers for the North American Championship. The Class officers believe this is a reasonable request, but only with appropriate controls in place that will ensure fair racing.

As such, in accordance with Class Constitution Section 7.2(b), the Executive Board voted on the following proposed Class Rule addition. The Executive Board approves with the proposal submitted to the full Class membership for a vote.

The proposed rules change would modify after J/109 Class Rules paragraph 5.7 the following paragraph 5.8.

5.8 For J/109 Class sanctioned events hosted by Fleet #11 (Great Lakes & Lake Champlain), including the 2025 North American Championship and any future Class championships hosted by Fleet #11, ("Fleet #11 Championship Event") the following applies to spinnakers should Fleet #11 so choose:

(a) The asymmetric spinnaker shall be manufactured from woven nylon with a minimum nominal weight of not less than 40grams per square meter. The area of the asymmetric spinnaker (“SA”) shall not exceed 120 square meters, based on the formula: SA=(luff length + leech length) *.25 foot length + (half width -.5 foot length) *(leech length + luff length)/3. Adjustable leech, luff, and foot lines shall be fitted to the asymmetric spinnaker.

(b) All asymmetric spinnakers declared for use during Fleet 11 Championship Events must be measured for compliance with 5.8(a) and issued a J/109 sail tag. Sailmakers are responsible for obtaining sail tags, conducting measurement, and submitting measurement data in accordance with Rule 5.1.

(c) All asymmetric spinnakers shall be listed in the J/109 sail tag database and the notes field will distinguish sails used under this Rule by stating the actual measured area in the following format: “Oversized Spinnaker Area xxx.xx square meters.”

(d) Should a competitor owning a boat located outside of Fleet #11 desire to race in a North American Championship or subsequent Fleet #11 Championship Event and the competitor requests to borrow a 120 square meter spinnaker for the event, Fleet #11 shall provide one to that competitor. The provided spinnaker shall not be more than 36 months old on the first day of the regatta. The competitor shall return the spinnaker after the event and is responsible for the costs of any repairs, or replacement if the sail is unrepairable at the completion of the event. A reasonable fee that is not more than one half the Championship registration fee may be charged for use of the sail.

Who may vote? A Voting Member as defined in section 3.0 of the class constitution shall be a legal owner or one designated legal owner in the case of a boat with more than one legal owner, such that each registered boat shall have one Voting Member. Each Voting Member shall have one vote. Voting Members maintain membership by paying annual membership dues and by complying with the J/109 Class Association Constitution and J/109 Class Rules. Note - if you desire to vote on the rules changes and are not a current year member, please go to the class website, update your membership and pay your current year dues. Voting members who paid previous year class dues will be allowed to vote through 31 March of the following year.

When may I Vote? All current members will be sent an email no later than 22 April 2025 notifying them that the official ballot is available. Voting is available online through noon 25 May 2025, at which time the results will be validated and tallied by the J/109 Class Secretary.

When would the change be effective? Should the proposed change be approved by the class, the change would be incorporated in the class rules effective 1 June 2025.

Maintenance Topics :: Computer Keels and Fairing a Keel :: Reply by MochiFanta

no_email@example.com (MochiFanta) — Mon, 11 Nov 2024 17:46:49 -0500

How did this project turn out for you?

Maintenance Topics :: Heat Exchanger Challenge :: Reply by Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Mon, 18 Nov 2024 10:08:17 -0500

For the 3YM30, some things I learned to share:
There were not many skills needed. Completing a general marine diesel class is a reasonable prerequisite so you know your engine before getting started. Lots of caution is needed. Although the acid did much of the work, it took me 16 hours to complete it: 3 hours to disassemble, 8 hours at home, and 5 hours to assemble. Doing this the first time, don't expect to complete the work in under 4 days.
- Taking pictures before getting started was insufficient to capture all the electrical connections to the alternator, take the effort to write them out also.
- Purchase all parts in advance, I went to toadsmarine for parts. Stock is awful, had to wait 10 days for some parts (October 2024)
- Plan to remove the entire heat exchanger assembly from the engine when purchasing parts like gaskets attaching to the engine and exhaust.
- There is a video of the heat exchanger being cleaned by a J109 owner, watch it. Very good. Note however, it is a different engine. The heat exchanger is now on the port side, and no longer divided into two chambers at each end cap, so there is no bar gasket, rather they are simply round x 4 of them.

- Expect to use 3 gallons of CLR. Expect to spend more time on this step as you discover more parts you want to remove rust from
- Don't get carried away removing rust. The bolts for example lose their gold coating even after a short time
- 2 hours is good starting point for the first immersion in CLR for most parts, then add time as necessary.
- When at home and removing the six bolts at each end, just let it sit a couple of days, it becomes easier to take apart. Also be familiar with which way the heat exchange slides to understand which direction you want to use force.
- Like in some of the vidoes, give the acid wash a head start, by first cleaning each of the individual tubes with a rifle cleaning kit. This is what I used:

- A dremel tool with 515 bits (180 and 280 grit) was useful too.
- Putting it back together is a two-person job. Attach the gasket between the engine and assembly with two long strips of electrical tape that you can pull completely out after you get a couple of bolts in. A person in the cabin supporting the weight from underneath leaves the person above to drop it in, line it up, and push the first bolts in.

Maintenance Topics :: Trucking a 109 :: Reply by Will1552

no_email@example.com (Will1552) — Sun, 22 Dec 2024 09:05:11 -0500

I had my boat trucked in the spring of this year. Go with these guys https://www.greatlakesmarineservices.com/
Mike Burt

They have trucked quite a few J/109's around the country and have a special trailer that keeps the boat low, I didnt have to remove anything, but I did need to loosen the guard on the helm station and tilt it forward to lower its height. Sorry, I also removed the wheel. Stantions, winches all stayed on.

These guys trucked a few J/109's in 2024 alone. Good Luck, I was 100% happy with them.

Maintenance Topics :: Tachometer Connection :: Reply by Vento Solare

no_email@example.com (Vento Solare) — Thu, 02 Jan 2025 10:57:41 -0500

You won't have the magnetic sensor. Use the stator output from the alternator. That is what the tachometer in your engine panel is made for. Was the MC-614 installed as a replacement for the original voltage regulator? If so, whoever installed it did not do a proper connection. I installed an MC-618 on J/122 Alliance when we installed a high capacity alternator and had to run a separate wire. This wasn't a Yanmar engine or panel, but the basic regulator and alternator connections follow the same philosophy.

See the 3YM service manual page 184. The orange wire at the instrument panel is the tach lead. If you look on the diagram, that goes through a Molex connector located as a flying yellow lead on the standard Hitachi alternator. Most of the high output alternators such as yours have a screw terminal with a hex nut. Look at the Alternator spec sheet link I put in the previous post and you'll see terminal 2 is the stator/tach output.

Maintenance Topics :: Need Help identifying :: Reply by breeves

no_email@example.com (breeves) — Sat, 18 Jan 2025 12:41:56 -0500

Thank you

Maintenance Topics :: Sling Location Diagram :: Author PourDecisions

no_email@example.com (PourDecisions) — Mon, 20 Jan 2025 19:11:56 -0500

Does anyone have a diagram or measurements of sling locations?

Maintenance Topics :: Soft deck material :: Reply by Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Thu, 30 Jan 2025 15:25:29 -0500

I have had thoughts about installing some kind of grab bar over the companionway instruments, making it easier to traverse and reducing the frequency people touch the displays.

Maintenance Topics :: Harken Backstay Adjuster :: Reply by Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Sun, 02 Feb 2025 14:05:14 -0500

Additional Cons:
Labor costs: Replacing the Harken also involves shortening the rod on the bottom and getting it correct within say 1/2 inch. Too short, and you will always have pressure on your backstay; too long, and you will lose the ability to achieve full tension.

While I could have calculated the length, i didn't want to screw up, so I first used AmSteel line (not legal) until I got the length where I wanted it. I wanted some slack to get the mainsail through on a light wind day, and some assurance that a small change in forestay length wasn't going to be a problem.

Maintenance Topics :: Main traveler car replacement :: Reply by Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Sat, 22 Feb 2025 15:50:38 -0500

Before doing work on the traveler track, think about the mainsheet cleat support post underneath. It is better to combine the two projects if you are thinking to replace it, or at least purchase the stainless steel post to have handy even if you don't plan to as you may find corrosion or the screw going into the post won't budge, a screw you must loosen to raise one side or the other to change cars.

The part is $5 ($14 all in for shipping and tax), info on the part in the post below.

https://j109.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p= ... post#p2016

Replacing the post adds three to six hours to your project. Headliners need to be removed, new screws replace old, screws need to be shortened to exact lengths to get the headliner back on. Two person project at times.

Maintenance Topics :: In mast Halyard Routing :: Author Salamander

no_email@example.com (Salamander) — Thu, 27 Feb 2025 13:09:32 -0500

I have the mast down on our 109 and I have decided to replace the lower spreaders due to excessive movement.

When I removed the Spreader mount from inside the mast I notice one of the halyards was at the front side of the spreader mount.

Is there a specific way the halyards should be routed?

WhatsApp Image 2025-02-27 at 18.06.20_610cc9b4.jpg

I am pretty sure it was the Genoa halyard that was on the bow side of the spreader mount.

Given that we have some trouble with slow difficult hoists i would love to rectify this with the mast on the floor

Attachments

WhatsApp Image 2025-02-27 at 18.06.20_610cc9b4.jpg (264.64 KiB)

Maintenance Topics :: Intermittent water intake :: Reply by jerry

no_email@example.com (jerry) — Thu, 13 Mar 2025 22:34:06 -0400

Thanks for the insight. With a > 20 yr old boat I am fighting new leaks every year.. If #41 has a drain, my bet is TPI forgot to but in a drain on #44, that will help. Good ideal to get a person spraying and one below to watch, I haven’t check the pedestal or the flag mount or other areas and I do need to do that.

Still my puzzle is why only during racing? Like this weekend- we doubled check the quarter-berth/lazarette and it was dry, no water that I could see any where. It did not rain and we still got the 4 gallons of water. However, in the 25-35 kt winds there were times some waves reached the back of the boat, or the water ran into the cockpit, or the stern was low enough to get water up on the floor at the helm, then the access panels would be exposed

I’ll keep working on it and let you know what I find… Those are good places to start

Maintenance Topics :: Painting wheel? :: Reply by Vento Solare

no_email@example.com (Vento Solare) — Sun, 16 Mar 2025 19:31:13 -0400

This from the Edson website.

ComfortGrip Leather Wheel Rim Cover - 42"-60" Dia. (Gray)

Maintenance Topics :: Alternator Belt Dust Fix :: Reply by Vento Solare

no_email@example.com (Vento Solare) — Mon, 17 Mar 2025 15:05:09 -0400

You can do the tensioning using levers and tension, but it is easier with the belt buddy.

If you have a 3GM as I think you do, this is the standard kit: https://shop.pkys.com/Balmar-48-YSP-3GM ... _4809.html

It all depends on whether you have the stock alternator and associate pulley sizes. Browse that site to see if there is a better match.

Maintenance Topics :: Replacing Clear Engine Control Panel :: Reply by Vento Solare

no_email@example.com (Vento Solare) — Wed, 02 Apr 2025 10:03:34 -0400

Dan,

I replaced mine by buying a sheet of Lexan, then traced the old one and used a scroll saw to cut it out. Cosmetically if you mask a border along the inside edge you can paint it black (I used a spray can of Krylon). You can then glue a rubber or foam strip to it to seal the inside edge, and the paint hides the glue. Here is a picture of the finished panel mounted.

Maintenance Topics :: Engine Mounts :: Author Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Sat, 05 Apr 2025 16:24:54 -0400

Has anyone replaced their engine mounts? Yanmar wrote "4 years or 1,000 hours". I am quite a way past that number.

What is hard about this project? Does the sail drive need to be supported from underneath?

Maintenance Topics :: Table Pieces Help Please :: Reply by Phoenix251

no_email@example.com (Phoenix251) — Mon, 07 Apr 2025 16:59:14 -0400

Hi Chris,

Converted for cans. I have the original in storage. Can get a photo of original if needed. I have found that mounting a shoe/storage holder on the mast with zip ties works really well for a Nalgene holder (for Macs).

https://a.co/d/5jh90hm

Matt

Racing Tools and Techniques :: Close Haul Spreader Markings :: Reply by Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 22:33:39 -0400

I use extra thin black electrical tape, distance between them almost does not matter, just cover about six inches from the stay in towards the mast. It meets the need to be able to communicate to crew and replicate settings.

Crew Position Wanted/Available :: 2025 NAs in Chicago - J-109 experienced racing crew available :: Author dbrousseau

no_email@example.com (dbrousseau) — Mon, 21 Apr 2025 23:33:37 -0400

Looking for a ride for the 2025 NAs. I co-own a J-109 named Tangaroa in San Francisco Bay. Would very much love to race one 109s one design and especially NAs in Chicago as we don't have a one design fleet in SF. 40 years racing experience on boats of all types - mainly SF Bay and West Coast. I'm good for and glad to take any position (including Bow), but my top skills are spin and jib trim, and main. Refs available. Member St. Francis YC. 415-eight one nine-7394. Dan

Boats for Sale :: Looking for J-109 Pacific Northwest/West Coast :: Reply by Reed

no_email@example.com (Reed) — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 15:30:02 -0400

Hello,
Mountain is for sail. Currently in Seattle (Shilshole). J/109 hull 36. very well equipped
Reed. 360-840-6205

Sails & Equipment for Sale :: Wanted: Cruising Sails for J/109 :: Reply by Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Mon, 11 Nov 2024 23:44:36 -0500

I currently have a J/109 Genoa 2007 138% Hathaway roller furling genoa; this type of sail has no battens, which makes it easy for sail changes. Condition, used with stains. Good up through 12 knots TWS after which the 109 is overpowered. $300

Sails & Equipment for Sale :: Wanted: Class size A-3 kite :: Author johnarens

no_email@example.com (johnarens) — Tue, 07 Jan 2025 14:00:16 -0500

Hey all,

Looking for a class A-3 kite in club racing or better condition. I'm located in SF Bay Area.

Thanks in advance,

jarens07@gmail.com

Sails & Equipment for Sale :: Custom carbon emer rudder (Seattle) :: Author Reed

no_email@example.com (Reed) — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 17:37:35 -0400

Custom. Carbon emer rudder and cassette for sale. Built in 2020 for solo transpac race. J109. Never used. Like new condition.
$2,000.00. phone or text 360-840-6205 for details. Thanks!

Sails & Equipment for Sale :: Sails for sale Seattle area J109 :: Reply by Reed

no_email@example.com (Reed) — Sat, 19 Apr 2025 15:53:42 -0400

All sold except #2 and tradewind sail

Looking to Buy Something :: Wanted: Nexus Windex connector :: Author volkerpetersen

no_email@example.com (volkerpetersen) — Sun, 24 Nov 2024 09:59:03 -0500

I'm looking for 1 or 2 old style Nexus Windex connectors - rubber 4 pins (2 male and 2 female). Please text me at 507-837-9868 if you have some for sale.

Thanks,
Volker Petersen
269 Zigzag

Looking to Buy Something :: Wanted: 3Di main :: Author JJeffries1

no_email@example.com (JJeffries1) — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 15:39:27 -0400

Hello. Looking for a used 3Di main. Preferably less than 4-5 years old.

Looking to Buy Something :: Lee Cloths :: Reply by Dan Corcoran

no_email@example.com (Dan Corcoran) — Tue, 22 Apr 2025 12:52:22 -0400

This worked well for Strider.
https://defender.com/en_us/blue-perform ... uard-bp600

Additional hardware needed for the line that runs through the top
* snap shackles with shackle pulls for each end of the line, the easier to operate as a user the better.
* eye hardware on both ends, for the forward cabin needs a backing plate
* Also, a box of 25 fat head screws, or screws with washers, as 12 are used to secure the section of lee cloth that goes under the user.