The J/109 Class Association Forum

I am curious what you are talking about. Could you elaborate? Thanks, dan!

Does anyone know a source for the cabinet door hinges around the J/109, like those found in cabinet just inside the forward birth?

Does anyone know a source for the water spigets?

I updated the above answer at 12:21pm on Thursday. If you read it before this, give it another read.

The previous-generation B&G Zeus³ (7") and Zeus³S (9") offers almost unbeatable racing software despite running on somewhat older hardware. I highly recommend them.

Why “almost unbeatable”?
B&G is a forerunner in system design, getting the most accurate math and situational awareness from all the ...

I wonder what other owners are using for Bilge Pumps. I am going through 800gph bilge pumps as if they are consumables.

My setup looks like this.
* Separate bilge depth sensor
* 800 gph standard Rule bilge pump (no float switch) output to
* backflow device, about 5 inches in length (why not use ...

Troubleshooting the seal drive alarm, found that that the supply voltage measured at the sensor is about 5v.

The output voltage on the white/yellow wire input into the alarm reads
0.64 vdc when the sensor is not submerged
0.71 vdc when the sensor is submerged

Unsurprisingly no light or buzz.

It ...

This worked well for Strider.
https://defender.com/en_us/blue-performance-lee-cloth-bunk-safety-guard-bp600

Additional hardware needed for the line that runs through the top
* snap shackles with shackle pulls for each end of the line, the easier to operate as a user the better.
* eye hardware on ...

Has anyone replaced their engine mounts? Yanmar wrote "4 years or 1,000 hours". I am quite a way past that number.

What is hard about this project? Does the sail drive need to be supported from underneath?

Anyone have good sourse to purchase a new engine pane cover, either ready to go, or by my own design?

My key location moved a bit, need to relocate the cutout. also broke that piece that covers that cutout.

I use extra thin black electrical tape, distance between them almost does not matter, just cover about six inches from the stay in towards the mast. It meets the need to be able to communicate to crew and replicate settings.

I am at the point of purchasing the 48-YSP-3YM-B kit for my 3YM30 and 110 Amp Alternator.

1) Is it any easier to get the right tension, or during this conversion does it make sense to also purchase the balmar belt buddy?

2) Which version of the belt buddy is for the 109?

Before doing work on the traveler track, think about the mainsheet cleat support post underneath. It is better to combine the two projects if you are thinking to replace it, or at least purchase the stainless steel post to have handy even if you don't plan to as you may find corrosion or the screw ...

Additional Cons:
Labor costs: Replacing the Harken also involves shortening the rod on the bottom and getting it correct within say 1/2 inch. Too short, and you will always have pressure on your backstay; too long, and you will lose the ability to achieve full tension.

While I could have calculated ...

I have had thoughts about installing some kind of grab bar over the companionway instruments, making it easier to traverse and reducing the frequency people touch the displays.

I would recommend following Bill's advice to change the seals.

In favor of the Harken unit:
* Has a gauge, but its too hard to read in a bouncing sailboat. I still use a stick with lines as I did before, and never reference the gauge.

Against:
* I don't know why, but more prone to knuckle ...