I wonder what other owners are using for Bilge Pumps. I am going through 800gph bilge pumps as if they are consumables.
My setup looks like this.
* Separate bilge depth sensor
* 800 gph standard Rule bilge pump (no float switch) output to
* backflow device, about 5 inches in length (why not use backflow on rule?)
* buzzer at the engine panel
* on/off/pulse switch below the DC panel
Bilge Pump
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Re: Bilge Pump
I'm still rocking what I think is the the original 1100 Rule pump. It runs a bit during the rainy season, and before and after each race speedo swapout. I've cleaned it out once, but otherwise it just works.
No backcheck as I've read they're a risk, so the back flow does indeed fill the bilge back up to the top of the pump. I use the manual bilge pump on the stern to get much of the rest. If I want to get it drier, I have a "The Last Drop" suction gun that plumbers use to fully drain toilet tanks.
No idea of the duty cycle, been meaning to put a DC current sensor on the circuit, but there's always too many other boat things to fix.
-John
Lindo #195
No backcheck as I've read they're a risk, so the back flow does indeed fill the bilge back up to the top of the pump. I use the manual bilge pump on the stern to get much of the rest. If I want to get it drier, I have a "The Last Drop" suction gun that plumbers use to fully drain toilet tanks.
No idea of the duty cycle, been meaning to put a DC current sensor on the circuit, but there's always too many other boat things to fix.
-John
Lindo #195
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Vento Solare
- Posts: 431
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 8:00 pm
- Location: Newport, RI
Re: Bilge Pump
This is a long winded answer, but similar to what John describes, and as most US based J/109s were shipped:
Rule 1100GPH standard bilge pump Model 27DA (12 Volt)
Aqualarm SS209 Smart Bilge Switch (comes with replacement red warning light panel)
The J/109 included a check valve near the pump located just above the sump, then the discharge hose ran under the port setee to the hull valve on the port side. Since owning the boat I have replaced the float switch twice and pump once. The pump was a mechanical failure. The sealed float switch wiring had water intrusion.
Overall this is a reliable system, Things I do to maintain it are:
1. During the season, I use a hose and fresh water to flush the deep portion of the bilge about once per month. This keeps the limber passeges clean, removes any corrosive salt and stops the bilge stink that occurs if you let stuff grow.
2. Once hauled, I removed the check valve, disassemble and clean it. It is reassembled and left to the spring to reassemble.
3. Use the hand pump to dry the bilge in the fall, then sponge it dry. *I have a boat cover with no water getting in the boat when covered.
*Before putting the cover on, have a second person blast everything with a hose topside to identify leaks. Fix the leaks as soon as they are found, as you may know a boat without leaks is only a temporary condition. Common leaks sources include:
Rule 1100GPH standard bilge pump Model 27DA (12 Volt)
Aqualarm SS209 Smart Bilge Switch (comes with replacement red warning light panel)
The J/109 included a check valve near the pump located just above the sump, then the discharge hose ran under the port setee to the hull valve on the port side. Since owning the boat I have replaced the float switch twice and pump once. The pump was a mechanical failure. The sealed float switch wiring had water intrusion.
Overall this is a reliable system, Things I do to maintain it are:
1. During the season, I use a hose and fresh water to flush the deep portion of the bilge about once per month. This keeps the limber passeges clean, removes any corrosive salt and stops the bilge stink that occurs if you let stuff grow.
2. Once hauled, I removed the check valve, disassemble and clean it. It is reassembled and left to the spring to reassemble.
3. Use the hand pump to dry the bilge in the fall, then sponge it dry. *I have a boat cover with no water getting in the boat when covered.
*Before putting the cover on, have a second person blast everything with a hose topside to identify leaks. Fix the leaks as soon as they are found, as you may know a boat without leaks is only a temporary condition. Common leaks sources include:
- Deck hardware bedding compound failed
- Hatch and portlight seals worn
- Hatch handles seals bad or improperly tightened
- Bedding compound on pedestal guard failed
- drip seal on pedestal compass warped or cracked
- Engine panel gasket warped or improperly torqued
- Engine control handle bezel not sealed
- Mast boot not properly fitted
- Track in mast at interface through the deck not sealed (put a bead of sealant at the mast interface under the mast boot so no water enters the boat there.
- Contrary to popular belief, water will not enter through the mast sheaves or exit slots as there is an internal seal in the mast that prevents water flow. There is conduit that wires pass though. What does happen is if the insulation on the steaming light cable cover is exposed, water can and will run inside the jacket to the junction box in the v-berth. Make sure that sealant is used where the wires exit the cover and on the mast to prevent that.
Re: Bilge Pump
I think I've had nearly all of these, plus:
The Beckson access plate above the rudder post will eventually leak. I've replaced the gasket once, and then a few years later, the whole plate as well.
90% of my water comes in from speedo insertions and a chronically leaking freshwater system. The rest is the rain and washdown water.
The Beckson access plate above the rudder post will eventually leak. I've replaced the gasket once, and then a few years later, the whole plate as well.
90% of my water comes in from speedo insertions and a chronically leaking freshwater system. The rest is the rain and washdown water.