Looking for options on installing a Bob Stay for a Code Zero. Initially thinking of a installing an eye on the power just above the water line to a strap around the sprit and and some bunjee to take up slack.
What have you done that worked well.. Or more importantly, what didn't work.
Bob Stay Options
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Vento Solare
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Re: Bob Stay Options
Don't do what I did 
See this old thread link: https://j109.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=872
I drilled a hole in the bow fore to aft and put a g10 backing plate behind to strengthen. The original concept had a bungee in the anchor locker to pull the bobstay in when the pole retracted. Great concept but bad implementation. The bungee required a couple of blocks to lengthen it or the sprit was too difficult to pull out. I found the bungee needed to be replace every couple of months.
If I did this again I would drill a hole across the bow just above the waterline, epoxy in a fiberglass tube, then gelcoat to finish. This is what you see as a common method across boat types for the bobstay attachment. The bobstay is attached at the bottom by passing a dynema spliced loop through the hole and itself, then the other end spliced on a similar larger loop around the front of the pole, forward of the u-bolt that holds the tack block. I tape this in place so it doesn't slide off when slack. The splice needs to be made so when the sprit is fully extended that the bobstay is taught. You might want to sacrifice a 1/2" of sprit extension to make sure this happens.
I attached a bungee to the stem head fitting below the furler and have a zip tie through the dyneema to provide a fixed position for the bungee to pull the bobstay out of the water when it is slack.
See this old thread link: https://j109.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=872
I drilled a hole in the bow fore to aft and put a g10 backing plate behind to strengthen. The original concept had a bungee in the anchor locker to pull the bobstay in when the pole retracted. Great concept but bad implementation. The bungee required a couple of blocks to lengthen it or the sprit was too difficult to pull out. I found the bungee needed to be replace every couple of months.
If I did this again I would drill a hole across the bow just above the waterline, epoxy in a fiberglass tube, then gelcoat to finish. This is what you see as a common method across boat types for the bobstay attachment. The bobstay is attached at the bottom by passing a dynema spliced loop through the hole and itself, then the other end spliced on a similar larger loop around the front of the pole, forward of the u-bolt that holds the tack block. I tape this in place so it doesn't slide off when slack. The splice needs to be made so when the sprit is fully extended that the bobstay is taught. You might want to sacrifice a 1/2" of sprit extension to make sure this happens.
I attached a bungee to the stem head fitting below the furler and have a zip tie through the dyneema to provide a fixed position for the bungee to pull the bobstay out of the water when it is slack.
