Looking for options on installing a Bob Stay for a Code Zero. Initially thinking of a installing an eye on the power just above the water line to a strap around the sprit and and some bunjee to take up slack.
What have you done that worked well.. Or more importantly, what didn't work.
Bob Stay Options
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- Vento Solare
- Posts: 462
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 8:00 pm
- Location: Newport, RI
Re: Bob Stay Options
Don't do what I did 
See this old thread link: https://j109.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=872
I drilled a hole in the bow fore to aft and put a g10 backing plate behind to strengthen. The original concept had a bungee in the anchor locker to pull the bobstay in when the pole retracted. Great concept but bad implementation. The bungee required a couple of blocks to lengthen it or the sprit was too difficult to pull out. I found the bungee needed to be replace every couple of months.
If I did this again I would drill a hole across the bow just above the waterline, epoxy in a fiberglass tube, then gelcoat to finish. This is what you see as a common method across boat types for the bobstay attachment. The bobstay is attached at the bottom by passing a dynema spliced loop through the hole and itself, then the other end spliced on a similar larger loop around the front of the pole, forward of the u-bolt that holds the tack block. I tape this in place so it doesn't slide off when slack. The splice needs to be made so when the sprit is fully extended that the bobstay is taught. You might want to sacrifice a 1/2" of sprit extension to make sure this happens.
I attached a bungee to the stem head fitting below the furler and have a zip tie through the dyneema to provide a fixed position for the bungee to pull the bobstay out of the water when it is slack.
See this old thread link: https://j109.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=872
I drilled a hole in the bow fore to aft and put a g10 backing plate behind to strengthen. The original concept had a bungee in the anchor locker to pull the bobstay in when the pole retracted. Great concept but bad implementation. The bungee required a couple of blocks to lengthen it or the sprit was too difficult to pull out. I found the bungee needed to be replace every couple of months.
If I did this again I would drill a hole across the bow just above the waterline, epoxy in a fiberglass tube, then gelcoat to finish. This is what you see as a common method across boat types for the bobstay attachment. The bobstay is attached at the bottom by passing a dynema spliced loop through the hole and itself, then the other end spliced on a similar larger loop around the front of the pole, forward of the u-bolt that holds the tack block. I tape this in place so it doesn't slide off when slack. The splice needs to be made so when the sprit is fully extended that the bobstay is taught. You might want to sacrifice a 1/2" of sprit extension to make sure this happens.
I attached a bungee to the stem head fitting below the furler and have a zip tie through the dyneema to provide a fixed position for the bungee to pull the bobstay out of the water when it is slack.
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Dan Corcoran
- Posts: 354
- Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 4:32 pm
Re: Bob Stay Options
Please describe how the bob stay retraction is rigged inside the anchor line to fully retract. How long is the elastic line? I am stumped believing the elastic needs to be at least six feet long to make the necessary retraction of the bobstay, and don't quite see the best way to do that inside the anchor locker from the pictures above.
Thank you
dan
Thank you
dan
- Vento Solare
- Posts: 462
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 8:00 pm
- Location: Newport, RI
Re: Bob Stay Options
Dan - did you read what I said? It didn't work so don't do it that way. Just do the bungee external to hold it out of the water. That is what I do now.
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Dan Corcoran
- Posts: 354
- Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2017 4:32 pm
Re: Bob Stay Options
I did not, Thank you.
