Engine Raw Water Flushing System
Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 6:05 pm
I've been contemplating installing an engine raw water flushing system for some time in order to make winterizing the system easier, and prevent dumping seawater and pink stuff in the bilge. This winter, I finally pulled the trigger. I purchased a bronze 3/4" ball valve with two 90 degree and one straight barb. The valve allows normal flow from the strainer to the pump. The other position changes the pump suction to the flushing hose.
With the valve in the mid-way position, it allows the strainer to be drained. The flushing hose may be placed in a bucket of fresh water to remove salt water from the system with the engine running. Then the hose may be inserted in an anti-freeze bottle, then once anti-freeze sprays out the exhaust, the engine is secured.
When I was connecting everything I found that the strainer discharge was 5/8" with the pump suction being 3/4". Rather than trying to force either an undersized or oversized connection, I decided to insert a 3/4" to 5/8" inline reducer so that hoses are properly sized to the connections.
The picture below shows everything connected. I still need to fabricate a bracket to hold the valve in position.
Close-up of hose connections
With the valve in the mid-way position, it allows the strainer to be drained. The flushing hose may be placed in a bucket of fresh water to remove salt water from the system with the engine running. Then the hose may be inserted in an anti-freeze bottle, then once anti-freeze sprays out the exhaust, the engine is secured.
When I was connecting everything I found that the strainer discharge was 5/8" with the pump suction being 3/4". Rather than trying to force either an undersized or oversized connection, I decided to insert a 3/4" to 5/8" inline reducer so that hoses are properly sized to the connections.
The picture below shows everything connected. I still need to fabricate a bracket to hold the valve in position.
Close-up of hose connections