The J/109 Class Association Forum

I use extra thin black electrical tape, distance between them almost does not matter, just cover about six inches from the stay in towards the mast. It meets the need to be able to communicate to crew and replicate settings.

I am at the point of purchasing the 48-YSP-3YM-B kit for my 3YM30 and 110 Amp Alternator.

1) Is it any easier to get the right tension, or during this conversion does it make sense to also purchase the balmar belt buddy?

2) Which version of the belt buddy is for the 109?

Before doing work on the traveler track, think about the mainsheet cleat support post underneath. It is better to combine the two projects if you are thinking to replace it, or at least purchase the stainless steel post to have handy even if you don't plan to as you may find corrosion or the screw ...

Additional Cons:
Labor costs: Replacing the Harken also involves shortening the rod on the bottom and getting it correct within say 1/2 inch. Too short, and you will always have pressure on your backstay; too long, and you will lose the ability to achieve full tension.

While I could have calculated ...

I have had thoughts about installing some kind of grab bar over the companionway instruments, making it easier to traverse and reducing the frequency people touch the displays.

I would recommend following Bill's advice to change the seals.

In favor of the Harken unit:
* Has a gauge, but its too hard to read in a bouncing sailboat. I still use a stick with lines as I did before, and never reference the gauge.

Against:
* I don't know why, but more prone to knuckle ...

There is an option for a magnetic pickup on the flywheel housing on figure 6 of the 3YM30 parts manual. I will look there when next on Strider.

My boat may be different as neither the stator (in) or the tach (out) pins on my Balmar MC-614 are wired to anything.

It's as if there is some sensor not connected to the alternator.

The wire to the DC panel tach is the orange wire from the 8-wire cable.

Dan

I am confused how the engine panel tach get's its input. The available lead from the alternator is connected to nothing, the contact on the Balmar smart regulator is unused.

Strider, #332 has Yanmar 3YM30 and 110A Balmar Alternator

p.s. I suppose it is possible I disconnected the lead from the ...

I took a look at my J/109 yesterday to think of an answer I could bring back. Don't have much to offer other than the savings is minimal. Removing the winches gains very little. The tops of the spinlock clutches vs the top of the winch is maybe 4", take out the clutches gains another 3/4" maybe ...

For the 3YM30, some things I learned to share:
There were not many skills needed. Completing a general marine diesel class is a reasonable prerequisite so you know your engine before getting started. Lots of caution is needed. Although the acid did much of the work, it took me 16 hours to complete ...

I currently have a J/109 Genoa 2007 138% Hathaway roller furling genoa; this type of sail has no battens, which makes it easy for sail changes. Condition, used with stains. Good up through 12 knots TWS after which the 109 is overpowered. $300

Would you believe it self disassembled, simply leaving it on the workbench it came apart on its own, the two ends fell off.

Next up is to slide out the heat exchanger, it isn't moving.

Does the newer heat exchanger matrix on the 2007 engines slide out, like it does in the video of the older yanmar ...

Position wood / hit it in which direction? Sheering left to right?

I have the version of the 3YM30 where the heat exchanger is on the port side.

After removing the three bolts on the front face (not to mention removing the alternator), the small front plate in front of the heat exchanger element won't come out.

Can't find a way to get any purchase. Any ideas ...