The J/109 Class Association Forum

Hi Jerry,
We have hull #41, so around the same build date and ours has a drain hole in the forward bulkhead of that lazarette. Maybe TPI forgot to drill one there. If you are inside the (garage) looking forward towards the head, it is in the lower left corner and as Bill mentioned should drain down ...

If you remove the top step from the companionway you should have more room to work in there. I would use the wood with a hammer from multiple angles to try to break it loose. Possibly some penetrating oil as well.

That "after" pic of your repair could be the cover photo for Bilge Monthly, looks excellent. Yours also has a bonus limber hole on the port side of the keel bolt, which I may end up adding.

Good eye on the crack in our bilge. It hasn't changed in the 5 years since the surveyor looked at it and had ...

Hi Russ,
The area that you are concerned with was part of a warranty repair when these boats were newer. I have never seen a photo of what it looked like before the repair, though the finish quality of these repairs varies greatly. As you can see below, our aft most keel bolt also has the added ...

Finally got around to installing this upgrade and here is a photo of the difference between the two 75mm blocks. Mine had the version with the smaller lower pin, though the hole had begun to elongate, so I upgraded to the newer one.

https://i.vgy.me/GcKyq7.jpg


It is called the Harken 170 HEXA ...

That's awesome, I'm Very familiar with Republic, she's a great boat with a wonderful owner who races it constantly and does a ton of sailing outreach with groups like Wounded Warriors. That said, she had some hull core material replaced in the past couple years but is still going strong.

Our 109 ...

Hi Russ, Nice work bringing another 109 to Lake Erie and good find on the source of that water infiltration.

Freeze/thaw cracking happened on the cockpit floor hatch behind our rudder post. I was able to cut into the underside skin of it to discreetly remedy and now use a winter cover to avoid ...

Hi Chris,
I was down at the boat today and took a couple photos of the cabin door hardware. The door handles resemble the ones made by Perko, though there are no markings on this part and instead of a knob on one side these have levers on both sides. They are slightly recessed into the surface ...

Thanks Bill. Just wanted to check as the upgrade from the MK III to MK IV Harken Furler is what has confused the issue. The MK III used a stud that is then connected to the fitting while the MK IV uses a different fitting so that you can swap in a new furler without re-swaging the headstay fitting ...

Can anyone confirm that the headstay length listed in the manuals section of this site is actually the pin to pin length or is it measured differently? Just want to be sure before I place an order. I clipped the chart below from this site.



Thanks, Todd

Thanks Dan, That list format is fantastic. While I'm not familiar with Hathaway as a sailmaker, I will do a little research and get back to you.

I am familiar with how quickly the boat can be overpowered with a larger headsail, though it has proven to be a weapon to keep the power on when the wind ...

Just a feeler to see if anyone has a 145% or similar sized #1/genoa that they would be interested in selling. Sail must be in decent shape for local PHRF racing. Would prefer North or Quantum, but am open to other sailmakers.

Thanks, Todd
#41

Never thought to ask that here, but I am also genuinely curious if any have come up with a workaround. We have experimented with cross sheeting and the consensus was that it generally slowed our tacks down and put unnecessary strain and chafe by not fairly leading the sheets.

Outside of installing ...

Hi Dan,
We have had similar problems with our furler as it seems to have taken a beating over the past 20 years, especially each time the rig was taken down. While I am about to replace ours, I did have some success lubricating it with Harken One Drop and that has allowed us to keep it in service ...

If it is the large o-ring on the gauge/sender unit, I would check with the manufacturer of that part since they are usually sold together. I can't remember if it has a brand name visible or not, but if it doesn't I would take it off and bring the seal to a NAPA or comparable auto parts store as they ...