Jib Inhauler System

[Vento Solare]

I have installed a jib inhaul system on Vento Solare similar to those on the J/88 and J/111. The design has been modified to allow both the port and stbd inhaulers to be adjusted simultaneously from either side. When properly setup, the same inhaul amount should be replicated on both the port and stbd tack. The system provides 5:1 purchase for inhaul. The forward lines are routed in a manner so the hatch under the vang is not fouled and can operate without interference from the inhauler.

Post updated 1/20/2016 with Padeye info from post below

Here is the parts list:

Qty, Part # and description
(2) Harken 150 Ball Bearing Cam Cleat
(2) Harken 425 Fairlead
(4) Stainless Phillips flat head screw 10-24 x 3"
(4) Stainless #10 flat washer
(4) Stainless 10-24 Nylock nut
(2) Harken 2163 40mm Carbo Cheek Block with Becket
(6) Stainless Phillips pan head screw 6-32 x 3"
(6) Stainless #6 flat washer
(6) Stainless 6-32 Nylock nut
(2) Harken 2655 40mm Carbo Fiddle Airblock
(2) Harken 6054 Cruising ESP Dual Deck Organizer
(4) Stainless 5/16-18 3 inch Hex bolt (replaces two in existing deck organizer)
(2) Antal R20.14 Low Friction Ring
(1) Antal ANTRL45 Low Friction Ring with 4.5mm Dyneema Loop
(*approx 24 ft) Single braid Dyneema 5/32" - make two 10 ft lines with eye splice at both ends
(*approx 42 ft) Double braid polyester 3/16" - make two 20 ft lines with eye splice one end, whipped other end

Hardware for mounting padeyes
(2) Schaeffer Diamond Padeye 78-95 Base: 3-1/8" x 2", Eye Width 3/4", Eye Height 7/16", SWL 4000 lbs
(2) Schaeffer Diamond Padeye Backing Plate 97-57 for padeye 78-95
(8) Stainless Phillips oval head screw 1/4-20 x 3" (trimmed to length after install)
(8) Stainless 1/4-20 Nylock nut
(2) G10 Plate 6" x 6" x 1/4"
Misc - butyl caulk, West Systems Epoxy, Colloidal silica to thicken epoxy, Gelcoat to cover areas where epoxy was used to isolate holes

*lengths to be updated after testing

The following diagram provides the general layout and line routing.


The headliner must be removed in order to mount the cheek block and cam cleats. The cam cleat is mounted just outboard of the cabin top winches, about 1/4" forward of the aft cabin top edge. The cheek block is mounted just forward of the molded lip that supports the dodger, just outboard of the halyards. Make sure to epoxy isolate the holes so that the core integrity is not compromised from potential water intrusion. Once the blocks and cam cleat are mounted and fasteners tightened, the excess screw lengths should be trimmed off and ground smooth.

Harken 2163 cheek blocks with becket are screwed to the cabin top for the inhauler just forward of the spray hood.


This is the same Harken 2163 cheek block shown without the dodger in the way.


Temporary line is routed in a trial fit of the jib inhauler. The control line starts at the becket of the Harken 2163 cheek block, runs forward to the small sheave on the Harken 2655 Carbo Fiddle block, back aft around the sheave on the Harken 2163, forward and around the large sheave on the Harken 2655, then aft to the Harken 150 cam cleat. The resulting purchase for this portion is 4:1.


A Harken 150 cam cleat was installed on port and stbd side for the new jib inhauler


The deck organizer has been expanded by stacking a Harken 6054 dual deck organizer on top of the existing organizer. This eliminated the requirement to drill additional holes on the deck for a 6 sheave deck organizer. It did require removing the headliner to install longer replacement bolts.
Small polyester line is being used to check the routing and length of the Dyneema line that will run through the Antal ring to inhaul the jib sheet. The line is attached on both port and stbd Harken 2655 block so that both port and stbd inhaulers may be adjusted from the control line on either the port or stbd side.


This view of the port side is similar to the stbd side. There will be an Antal ring attached to the center of the mast base to allow the Dyneema line to be crossed over to the opposite side. Only one line is under tension at a time, depending on which tack the boat is on. Actual routing of the Dyneema above or below the handrail will need to be resolved once the system is tested with the new class jib.


This shows an Antal low friction ring attached with a Dyneema loop at the mast base. The real Dyneema inhaul lines are shown threaded through this ring, as only one is under tension at a time.

[Vento Solare]

Based on testing done on Ursa with Brooke Mastrorio late this fall, I have decided to add a padeye on the cabin top where the inhauler lines are routed. This serves two purposes:
1. Keeps the inhaul angle perpendicular to the jib sheet to minimize the amount of tension needed to inhaul
2. Keeps the clew of the sail pulled down which helps sail shape, and also mitigates an angular load on the deck organizer sheave. When the inhauler is eased, the clew has the tendency to rise, which would put an upward force on the deck organizer

Below are photos taken during the padeye installation:
Center of padeye located and pilot holes drilled in top glass layer, through the balsa core but not through the bottom skin. The padeye center is located just inside a 6 degree angle from the centerline (measured from the forestay attachment point), and inline with the port and starboard chainplates.


Forstner bit used to drill out balsa core without penetrating bottom skin. The final hole size will be 9/32" to handle a 1/4" diameter screw. The Forstner bit is 1/2" which leaves a 1/8" epoxy isolated wall around the screw hole.


Epoxy was thickened with colloidal silica and poured in the holes. A heat lamp allowed thickened epoxy to cure with outside temperature at 25 degrees. Once the epoxy cured, the area was sanded and 9/32 inch diameter holes drilled with the top countersunk so that a good seal could be made when the padeye is mounted. White gelcoat was screened on to seal the epoxy and cured with heat lamps.


The headliner was removed to allow access for drilling and attaching the padeyes. This is the starboard side. Underside of the padeye is reinforced with 1/8" G10 plate, and a stainless backing plate. Stainless 1/4-20 screws are trimmed to length flush with the Nylock nuts. Butyl caulk was used to seal the screw holes under the padeye. (Note - this picture has good view to see the balsa core "blocks" through the inner skin)


Inhauler lines routed in final configuration through the padeye.

[Vento Solare]

John Sahagian sent me the following diagram for the system he is installing in Picante.

" It all comes off for cruising except the double cheek and the cam cleats which my kids would have to work at tripping over."

[Vento Solare]

Another update to the Vento Solare inhaul system. I bought 1-1/4 x 2-1/4 x 24 inch white Delrin stock from McMaster Carr and routed a half circle 1" diameter so it will fit under the handrail. The bar was cut in two to create one for port and starboard. It was cut on a table saw length-wise to the dimension from the handrail to the deck which was slightly different on each side. It is wedged in place to prevent deforming the handrail when the jib is sheeted over it while inhauling. I used a small lump of butyl tape under it to prevent it from slipping. There are no extra holes or fasteners required to hold it in place - only the compression force from the screws on the handrail.

The attached pdf file has fabrication directions.

[Bengt J]

Orbit blocks spliced to mast collar

IMG_0080.JPG (412.83 KiB) Viewed 80245 times

3:1 first tackle

IMG_0079.JPG (382.75 KiB) Viewed 80245 times

Low friction ring pulling jib towards grab rail

IMG_0077.JPG (305.92 KiB) Viewed 80245 times

second cascade tied around rope clutch, cleated in spare clutch

IMG_0078.JPG (347.13 KiB) Viewed 80245 times

Materials needed:
50' 4mm amstel blue
25' 1/4 MLX or similar
4 Ronstan Orbit 30
2 Antal 20mm low friction rings
Total cost about $140
No drilling in to the deck needed just splice/tie in place and run through exusting turning blocks and spare rope clutches.

[Dan Corcoran]

1) I am in the process of changing the rigging on Strider, following Bill's in-hauler post and looking at setting up an increase in the jib car purchase.
Anyone come up with improvements to this system? Which jib car purchase approach did you take? I race PHRF and OD.

2) Does's Bill's design have have advantages over the Jib Inhauler System posted by BengtJ

Dan Corcoran
Strider

[Vento Solare]

Dan,

Here is what I see as Pros and cons of the two approaches.

Bill's setup pros
allows adjustment of both inhaulers from either side
has padeye mounted forward to help shape foot and leech
more purchase requires less force to adjust

Bill's setup cons
requires drilling in deck
is always there even if you have a phrf jib that doesn't require inhaulers

Bengt's setup pros
No drilling required
removable when not used

Bengt's setup cons
Only adjusts a single side
less purchase requires more force to adjust inhaul

[jng7000]

One issue I ran into was the friction rings would get caught on the eye splices for the jib sheets. Easy fix, just used a stainless steel ring instead. If you have eye splices on your jib sheets check to make sure the friction ring is big enough.

Jim
#168 Junkyard Dog

[Dan Corcoran]

Bill, would you have another picture to help make it more clear where the optimal position of the padeye should be? Should there be one or two per side (I see two in on the starboard side picture)

Is the position of the pad-eye sensitive / would the design benefit from having a short track to move it forward/aft?

Did you use 1/4 or 1/8 G10 as a backing plate?

Thank you everyone

[Dan Corcoran]

Bill, would crossing the lines as they leave the deck organizer do away with the need for padeye's? (at the expense of blocking the hatch)

Best
Dan

[Vento Solare]

Dan,

I worked with the sailmaker to get the optimal position for the padeye. I have some recut sails and new sails. Each has the padeye in different locations. I can't give you a conclusive answer on where to mount them, or if crossing the lines will help. My padeye position was based on 2 solid days of testing with both Ursa and Vento Solare doing two boat tuning.

I used 1/8" G10 plate for backing. I believe a movable track skirts the class rules rules but would defer to the class measurer for an answer on that.

[dbrousseau]

Hey Dan, can you share pics of what you finally came up with for your inhauler set-up? I am starting from scratch. Thanks, Dan